9/3/2023 0 Comments Wood window stiles and rails![]() ![]() ![]() It was the process of cutting the meeting rails and the stopped tenons that threw me. I did make the meeting rails the width you suggested. I was not heading that direction until absolutely necessary. I have a book showing the dovetailing of the stiles and rails as you mentioned. The parting strip needs to stop at the bottom of the top sash, and be beveled on the end to allow it to tilt out. If the top sash is fixed, put a stop under it that covers the parting strip plough. Check railed sash are normally made with through slot mortises. Usually you can add on 1/16" less than the thickness of the parting strip. The meeting rails should be thicker than the rest of the sash. It would seem that in a window where the top sash did slide down, then the parting bead could be installed full length, but now I am unsure.Ĭlick here for higher quality, full size image So I ended up making the parting bead in two sections and sliding each in separately, the top section first. Because of this the parting beads would not go in full length after installing the upper sash because of the meeting rail profile bevel. In this particular instance, the upper sash was stationary (matching existing in old house). Do you cut the meeting rail lap profile out of separate material and then glue them to the top and bottom sashes? Or do you mill a double through tenon on the rails to match the mortise and half mortise on the stiles? I did not want to do a through tenon, but afterwards thought maybe it is required? So I added a small section on each side glued with West System epoxy (painted). I milled the meeting rails as part of the main rails, but forgot to cut the rails long to extend to the stop beading. After doing this and figuring out the peculiarities of cutting the meeting rails, I'm wondering how you do it. I have just finished making and delivering a sash window and jamb. ![]()
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